I recently came upon a list some national publication put together of the 50 best BBQ joints in America. The list contained, I think, one South Carolina pork eatery and a couple from North Carolina. They raved and carried on about the emerging barbecue scenes in New York, Chicago and other large metropolitan areas. That tells me a couple of things…one, the rest of the country is finally catching on to what we’ve known all along, that being that time, smoke, spices and a tough or fatty cut of meat can produce some of the best food available to mortal man. It also tells me that the folks putting the lists together don’t know their tail hole from a mailbox. I’d rather pull some rando off the street in Sugar Tit (“road” or “wagon path” might be more appropriate than “street”, I guess) hand him a pig ear, a Bic and a couple of sticks and eat what he could make out of it than eat at some of the places on the list. OK, that might be taking things a tad too far. It’s not that folks outside the southeast can’t make good barbecue, but it was born here, perfected here and I promise you the compilers of the list I saw haven’t been to every barbecue joint in our state. They couldn’t find most of them, as some of the best smoked, pulled and sauced pork I’ve ever eaten comes from country stores, gas stations and singlewide trailers. They often have nondescript signage or none at all…they don’t need any because people know where they are, go there in large numbers and eat everything that has been prepared. I know of places that don’t have actual hours of operation…customers know the Q will be ready at 11 a.m. and when it’s all gone, the proprietor lock sthe dang door and goes home. That sometimes only takes three or four hours.
So, dissatisfied with the “best in Q” lists I’ve seen, I’ve decided to make my own. My qualifications are that I have this here meat and football blog, I eat a lot, I’ve eaten at many of our state’s best barbecue establishments and I’m fairly proficient at using adjectives. That’s all I’ve got, but that’s probably more than the unholy meat sophists who claim the Palmetto State only has one of the top 50 joints in America. The thing is, despite my extensive travels and abject gluttony, I have not dined at EVERY barbecue joint in South Carolina, so this list will be a work in progress. My hope is that you, the football and meat loving reader, will contribute as well. If something seems amiss on my list (wasn’t that a Hall and Oates song?), please email me at [email protected], tweet me at @CNR_Sports or leave a message in the comment section. The criteria, honestly, is whatever you want it to be. We all know what makes for a crappy barbecue joint (you can read of my harrowing encounter with burned meat, yellow salt and stale sauce here), but what makes a great one is kind of up to the individual. For me, sides are nice and ambience can contribute to my enjoyment but the meat is the most important thing to me. I can get good beans and macaroni at plenty of places, frankly, and if your barbecue is good enough I’m not going to expend a lot of plate space on stuff that wasn’t oinking in a barnyard at some recent point. So, with that, let’s start the list. Honorable mentions: Hubba Hubba (Flat Rock). This eatery is not eligible for my list because it isn’t in South Carolina. It’s really close…you could probably pee in their parking lot from Landrum, but close doesn’t cut it in this case. If you ever find yourself going up 26, I highly recommend it. The sides are pushing it on being gourmet without being pretentious and frou frou. They do a three-bean mix in their baked beans and they come with a nice punch of spice. The cornbread actually has succulent corn kernals in it. The barbecue and chicken are both juicy, appropriately spiced and authentically wood smoked. They have every style of sauce imaginable and all are good. They also have free range chickens that walk around and often come right up to your table (most of the seats are outside on a brick hearth). Warning: They do look at you in a very judge-y manner when you are eating their brethren. Shealy’s (Batesburg-Leesville)- OK, a lot of you have already discounted my opinion on BBQ and are ready to fight me for putting this landmark eatery on my honorable mention list, but hear me out. As I already stated, my top criteria is your actual pulled pork barbecue and related smoked meat products (ribs, brisket etc). If this was a fried chicken and sides contest, Shealy’s would be first and, um, there actually wouldn’t be a list. There would just be “Shealy’s” written on a sheet of paper with smiley faces and exclamation points and drool stains and no one else even mentioned. I don’t think they actually smoke their barbecue and ribs anymore, though. They both taste like very good roast pork but not barbecue, hence my rating. I do consider their mustard sauce to be one of the three best in the state (Melvin’s/Maurice’s and Wise’s being the others). Cannon’s (Little Mountain)- There isn’t actually a mountain in Little Mountain, it’s a hill, people. There is some of the state’s finest barbecue…but not for too much longer, which is why it’s only honorable mention. Were the operators of this hidden gem not retiring in the near future, it would have been VERY HIGH on my list. Their sides are good and their ribs are good, but their pulled pork is among the best I’ve ever tasted. The first time I went there, I knew it would be. You almost can’t find Cannon’s, it’s in a trailer off the side of the road and your view of that trailer is often obscured by giant piles of wood. That’s a signal that someone is splitting logs and sweating like a fat guy in a sauna to make you barbecue over an actual fire…and you can taste every ounce of effort. It’s so dadgum good…and I’m so dadgum sad they are closing. Sweatman’s (Holly Hill)- I’m sitting them here because they have an incomplete score. Based on my personal experience at Sweatman’s, they belong high on the list. The last time I went their buffet contained white and dark barbecue meat, which requires explanation. When you smoke meat, there is a chemical reaction that creates what is called a “smoke ring.” Basically, the outer portion of the meat gets red. So, they’d slice that meat off, chop it up and call it “the dark meat.” The pork that was located deeper down that maintained its natural white-ish color was chopped up and called “the white meat.” I’ve never seen anyone else do that. They also had ribs, hash and rice and pork skins. There was a sauce spigot at the end of the line. That was all and that was all I wanted. Why do I want to occupy space in my stomach with okra or taters when I can have the best ribs I’ve ever tasted? They kept their focus on what was important. It was a minimalist paradise. I once ate so many ribs there, I got meat drunk and felt like I was going to explode. My wife was concerned. “Are you OK? Do you need anything?” “Yes. I need some nanner pudding,” I said. It was great nanner pudding. Anyway, I’ve been told that they expanded the buffet to include a bunch of vegetables and stuff and that there have been other changes I would not be pleased with. So, until I go back and taste for myself, I’ll leave them here. If it remains as good as before, they are automatically elevated to top five status. Carolina Bar-B-Que (New Ellenton)- I haven’t actually eaten here but my cousin Kevin, who definitely knows his way around a plate of meat, swears it’s the best he’s ever had. I need to verify this claim soon. Westfall’s Texas Style BBQ (Camden)- I’ve only eaten there once and didn’t have their barbecue, so they have to be assigned probationary status for now. When I saw the words “Texas Style,” I decided they should probably have decent brisket. My friend and fellow BLAWGGER Jed Blackwell decided I was out of my tree for pulling into a random place to eat cow (read about that here). As it turns out, my instincts were actually correct. Brisket is very hard to cook properly. If it’s just a little underdone the texture can fall somewhere between that of a doggy’s rawhide bone and the elastic waistband of a pair of draws. A little over and it’s roast beef. They hit the doneness right on the money. They had some nice bark on the exterior, but under that it was juicy and unctuous and delightful in every way. You tasted meat, smoke and some salt and pepper. It was perfect and the portion they put on my sandwich was quite generous. I’ll go back for barbecue at some point. Now, for my actual list. 10. Lonestar Barbecue and Mercantile (Santee)- This is the lone case of atmosphere and ambience providing a place with a big boost. Now, I enjoyed the food very much. The barbecue was good, the friend chicken was very good and I enjoyed the sides, particularly the tomato pie. What made this place special for me was the fact that the restaurant (and old timey toy and candy store) sits inside four or five abandoned, old country stores that the owner moved to a common location and stacked side-by side-by side. The walls were adorned with old newspapers, old typewriters, old magazine ads reminding you that champion athletes like Stan Musial smoke Chesterfield’s. The cake-taker for me though was a small shrine to the undefeated, state championship-winning 1957 Springfield High football team. Good food, nostalgia, football…that’s hard to beat. 9. Henry’s Smokehouse (Greenville and Simpsonville)- This is a place that prides itself on giving you meat kissed with smoke, enhanced with a simple rub and letting you add some sauce if you so choose and that’s that. Bells and whistles aren’t necessary when you know what the hell you’re doing. In keeping with their less-is-more theme, I’ll keep things simple too. Their barbecue and ribs are very good and so is every side I’ve tried there. Period. 8. Bucky’s BBQ (Various Greenville County locations)- Much like Henry’s, everything I ate there was good on my two visits. The barbecue had excellent smoke flavor and delightfully crunchy pieces of bark, which separates the real stuff from the pork cooked over gas. Oh, and the ribs make me feel like a dog. I just want to eat the meat, and gnaw on the bone and have someone scratch my belly and do my business in the backyard…or something like that. 7. Hudson’s Smokehouse (Lexington)- See my “everything they have is good” commentary above. 6. Ronnie’s Ribs (Elgin)- Ronnie’s is the kind of place I spoke of earlier. It’s not a fine dining establishment with starched tablecloths and blah blah. It is a shack in Elgin that might have a picnic table out back. When I went there, I ordered the ribs for a couple of reasons. One, I really like ribs, but also if you have the word “ribs” in the name of your establishment, that seems to be what you’re hanging your hat on. If I went to a place called “Mimi’s House of Big Ass Pies” I’d probably be eating baked goods with fruit inside. Anyway, the ribs were spares, I think, and WERE NOT trimmed down to neat little St. Louis style offerings. These looked like the things that tipped Fred Flinstone’s car over. They were enormous, meaty, juicy, smokey, spicy and well sauced. They were terrific. It seems like I had tater salad and baked beans on the side and liked both. My wife got barbecue and let me try it and the little bit I ate seemed to be on par with the ribs. 5. Pig Out (Inman)- My brother in meat (that sounds strange…I should think of something better) Jed Blackwell has this place on his list as well (which is just a bit down the page). He’s been there far more often than I, so I’ll let him tell you how crazy delicious their Q is. 4. Belly’s Southern Pride (Lexington)- I’ve only been able to visit this restaurant once, but it was a memorable trip. It is almost like the people who run this establishment crawled inside my brain, took note of exactly what I like, and designed their menu accordingly. That would show real dedication, because a trip through my brain would be like running naked through a minefield, but I digress. I am a fan of spice and heat and Belly’s brought it. I like a sweeter flavor on some things…things like the big ass pies that Mimi bakes or ice cream. On meat, I enjoy sweetness IF it is balanced with a peppery kick or some tart vinegar flavor. Do not bring me meat that tastes like a dang Mars Bar. Belly’s ribs, on top of being perfectly cooked (i.e. not overdone and gloppy and falling off the bone) had a bold flavor. They had ample smoke and more spice than most places are comfortable using. I loved it. Don’t be afraid to throw some cayenne and chipotle at me. The barbecue followed the same path. I’m sure they have a sweeter sauce to balance things out if you have a Nancy little mouth, but do yourself a favor and eat their meat as is. It’s a great changeup from what most places offer. 3. The Smokin’ Pig (Pendleton, Williamston, Easley)- This is one is on Jed’s list too, so I’m not going to ramble on (I mean, anymore than I already have), but let me emphasize how incredibly good the barbecue, brisket and chicken are. Again, they have sweet sauce available if you choose to add it, but they let all the meat speak for itself with the only embellishment being smoke and spices. Also, the tater casserole is sublime and the jalapeno cheese grits are one of the best sides available…anywhere. 2. Midway BBQ (Buffalo)- I have to admit, I somehow overlook how good the pulled pork barbecue is at Midway. I shouldn’t…it says “BBQ” right there in the name. Pretty hard to miss. I think the problem (and it’s the tastiest, most wonderful problem ever) with their barbecue is that Midway happens to have the best hash and chicken stew in the state, bar none, don’t argue with me about this. When I think Midway, I think “chicken stew and hash.” Oh, and vegetables and fatback (a large slice of which comes with your lunch plate, probably even if you tell them you’re a vegan and only want collards and beans). In the midst of all that goodness, the barbecue maybe gets lost a little, but it absolutely should not. Their chopped pork comes with sauce already on it, which is OK but I prefer to add my own. Just order the pulled and you’re good to go. It’s excellent…why, almost as excellent as their hash and chicken stew. 1. (TIE) Scott’s Bar-B-Que (Hemingway), Hite’s BBQ (West Columbia)- I tried not to weenie out and have a tie for first place. I agonized over this, but there is simply no way to separate these two. I think it’s because both Rodney Scott and David Hite do everything the most difficult way possible. They both go out to the back of their respective establishments, stoke fires to make coals, then carry them shovel-full by shovel-full into their pits to place under whole hogs. It’s hot, hard, long work, but it’s absolutely worth it. You taste the difference with every bite. Those two gentlemen are craftsmen and artisans of the highest order, in my opinion. Now, they aren’t identical. Scott’s mops their hogs and I think finishes them up with a more Eastern North Carolina vinegar sauce that packs some heat. Hite’s is more of a mustard-based sauce, but both are excellent and both serve only to enhance the natural flavors of the pork I’ll note that Hite’s has a few more offerings on the menu than the original Scott’s, including the best pork skins I’ve ever had. I apparently got lucky when I managed to get those, since they are normally reserved in days in advance. I shouldn’t call the skins “those” because there was just one in the package, but it was roughly the size of two or three roof shingles. Yep, big ‘ol pork shingles that pair with the mustard sauce in the best way possible. The old Scott’s is actually a country store that happens to sell kick ass barbecue. Sides consisted mainly of bags of potato chips or whatever, but who gives a flip about peas when you get to eat Rodney Scott’s whole hog Q? There were “old lady at church revival” quality cakes to be had. I tried some red velvet that was about 10 layers deep that made me weep. In my opinion, Scott’s and Hite’s are the best barbecue joints in South Carolina…ergo, they are the best in the world. I’d love to have your feedback on my list and any glaring omissions. Now, as promised, here is my buddy Jed Blackwell’s list… 1. Pig Out, (Inman) There are two Pig Out branches, with the newest on Drayton Road in Spartanburg. That establishment has an expanded menu including pork tenderloin and brisket. The one you want is the original. It's at the intersection of John Dodd Road and New Cut Road near Inman. The late Joe Crook's original menu features pulled pork, smoked chicken and hash. Ribs are available Thursday through Saturday, but only until they're gone. I think you can get a hot dog, too, but I'm not sure why you would. Slaw, baked beans, fries, occasionally peach cobbler. That's it. That's also all one needs. The ribs are among the best I've had, the chicken is great, and the hash is the western South Carolina style with no sauce. But the pork is what makes Pig Out special. Here, smoke is used like salt and pepper. It's not something that the meat tastes like, it's something the meat is seasoned with. It's hard to explain. There's no sauce included, they have ample bottles of mild red, hot red, and hot mustard-based on the table or containers in your to-go bag. It's not the fanciest place. You're quite literally having barbecue in a converted gas station. They're a Yeti dealer, so there are usually a few coolers scattered about. Last time I went (which was a whole week ago, something I hope to remedy), the truck had just come in and there were cans of beans lining the walls in the back room. Hours are spotty, but the locals know. Any time after 11 a.m. on Thursday and Friday is safe, 11-2ish on Saturday usually is, too. When I worked closer, I'd go weekly. And I'm not exaggerating or romanticizing or taking poetic license when I tell you it wasn't uncommon to see captains of industry - and I'm talking members of Augusta National - sharing a table and a sauce bottle and a paper towel roll with shift workers as they all enjoyed the best barbecue in the county. If you're looking for predictable hours, or a varied menu, or metal utensils, this is probably not the place for you. It's place on my list, though, comes back to this: when I try a new place for the first time, it's not uncommon for me to think "Damn, this is almost as good as Pig Out." Almost. 1A. Hite's, (West Columbia) David has never been to a high school football game. That's how seriously he takes barbecue. Instead of foolishly watching games, Hite spends his Friday nights feeding burn barrels behind a shack on his family's property in West Columbia. There, he turns whole hogs into magic. Hite's is a "till it's gone" establishment, and I can't imagine David's Saturdays running too long. It's that good. Lines in the parking lot begin as early as 6 a.m. on holidays. You have to reserve a rack of ribs, or skins off the hog. It's a strictly to-go proposition, but last time I went there was a picnic table and a couple plastic chairs right outside. But trust me, the driver's seat of your car will do. I guess your kitchen table would work fine, too. But I doubt you'll make it that far. 3. The Smokin' Pig, (locations in Pendleton, Williamston and Easley) Really good barbecue. Good ribs, and you can get them dry or sticky with sauce. The best brisket I've had prepared by someone not from Texas hosting Travis Jenkins' engagement party. Seriously, I don't love brisket, but I take seconds of theirs. The banana pudding is also excellent. But the reason I rank them so highly is not just the quality of their barbecue, but the sides as well. The jalapeno cheese grits alone merit this place on the list. Phenomenal. 4. Wise's BBQ House, (Kinards) This is minimalist perfection. A low-slung cinderblock building. A small buffet line. If memory serves, you can get pork, hash and rice, ribs, beans, slaw, and pork skins. You can also get ladle after ladle of their mustard sauce. It's served warm, right there on the buffet line, and is the best example of Carolina Gold I've ever had in a restaurant, mass-produced setting. 5. Melvin's BBQ, (Mount Pleasant) Legendary South Carolina barbecue. Melvin is a member of the storied Bessinger family, and the barbecue here is unique to their style. Smoked fresh hams instead of shoulders, and perhaps the state's best-known mustard sauce mixed in. The bbq is fantastic, the hush puppies are great, and it's home to what Emeril Lagasse once called the best cheeseburger he's ever had.
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TravisI am Travis, the king 0f SC 1A Football Archives
November 2021
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